Sell film cameras, medium format and vintage lenses
Film cameras are judged on mechanics and glass as much as looks. A body that fires at every speed and a lens with clean glass is a different item from one that only looks good. This page explains what buyers check so you can test your camera and send better photos.
Short answer: Send photos of the camera and lens, the brand and model names, and a short note on what works and what does not to (858) 247-2017 or use the form below. We tell you whether it looks like a fit, look at it in person in Southern California or by prepaid mail-in elsewhere, and make one offer you are free to decline.
Which film cameras and systems do buyers look for?
Brands and models matter because demand is not even. Tell us the exact model, not just the brand, since the same maker can have models that are easy to place and others that are not.
35mm SLRs and rangefinders
Nikon F and FM series, Canon AE-1 and F-1, Pentax K1000 and Spotmatic, Olympus OM, Minolta, and Leica rangefinders. Working bodies with clean glass get the most interest.
Medium format
Hasselblad 500 series, Mamiya RB and RZ, Rolleiflex and Rolleicord twin lens cameras, Pentax 645 and 67, Bronica. Backs, finders, and lenses matter as separate pieces.
Point and shoot and compacts
Some premium compacts are sought after while many are not. Name the model and say whether it fires, zooms, and winds.
Lenses and accessories
Prime lenses in a known mount, rangefinder lenses, medium format lenses, original hoods, caps, cases, and light meters. Lenses can be worth a look on their own.
Digital bodies are a separate conversation. Include the battery, charger and memory card slot photos if you have a digital camera to sell.
How do I test a film camera before I sell it?
You do not need tools. A few minutes with fresh batteries and a bright window tells you most of what a buyer will check.
- Fire the shutter at every speed. Slow speeds such as 1 second and one half should sound clearly longer than fast ones and the shutter should not hang open.
- With the back open and a lens off, look through the film gate to see whether the shutter opens evenly. One side staying dark is called capping.
- Wind the advance lever or knob through a full cycle and rewind. It should feel positive, not slipping or gritty.
- With fresh batteries, check that the light meter reading moves smoothly when you change light, ISO, or aperture.
- Look through the lens from both ends with a small light. Fine threads or webs can be fungus. A cloudy veil is haze. Rainbow patches near the edge can be separation. A little dust is normal.
- Open and close the aperture. The blades should snap, with no oil, and the focus ring should turn smoothly.
- Check battery compartments for white or green corrosion, and look at the leatherette for lifting and the light seals for stickiness.
Untested does not mean working. If you cannot test something, call it untested. We would rather know than guess.
What do buyers refuse or discount?
- Heavy fungus, haze or separation in lenses
- Shutters that stick, hang or cap, and film advance that slips
- Water damage, mold, or smoke odor
- Corroded battery compartments or leaked batteries
- Missing parts such as backs, finders, lens caps, and eye cups on modern bodies
- Amateur repairs, glued parts, and stripped screws
- Disposable cameras and broken digital compacts
Many of these are not automatic refusals, but they change what is possible and what a fair offer looks like. Say what is true.
Can the original box, case or paperwork matter?
Yes, more for premium and collector cameras than for everyday ones.
- Original boxes, cases, straps, manuals, and warranty cards can all help identify and complete a camera
- Matching serial numbers on body and lens help for some systems, and a note of any service history is useful
- A camera that has been cleaned, lubricated and adjusted by a repair shop is worth mentioning, with the shop name if you know it
Digital cameras, lenses and gear from a working photographer
Photographers who are selling a bag often have bodies, several lenses, flashes, and accessories. Tell us everything, even the small items.
- List the lenses with brand, mount, focal length and maximum aperture, as printed on the front ring
- Include original batteries, chargers, and caps, since many buyers require them for a full offer
- Note shutter count if your body displays it, and any sensor dust or scratches
- Group lenses by mount so that nothing gets lost in a pile
What we look at
- Working or repairable 35mm and medium format film cameras
- Rangefinders, twin lens reflex cameras, and premium compacts
- Prime lenses with clean glass in a known mount
- Whole camera bags, kits, and a deceased photographer's gear
- Digital bodies and lenses with battery, charger and caps
What is usually not a fit
- Cameras with heavy fungus, mold, or water damage
- Disposable and single use cameras
- Digital cameras with broken screens and no charger
- Parts only gear with missing shells and no way to test
A few careful notes on selling a camera
- Never open a lens or camera yourself to clean it. It often makes things worse.
- Do not ship a camera with batteries left inside, and do not send a leaking one without telling us.
- Do not trust a listing that says fully working unless the seller shows the shutter firing at each speed.
What photos should I send?
Good photos get a faster and more honest answer. Natural light and a plain background are enough.
- Front, back, top, and bottom of the camera
- The lens attached, then the front and rear glass with light behind it
- The serial number and the model name
- Anything damaged, corroded, dented, or peeling
- Everything that comes with it, laid out together
How an offer works
We make one offer for the whole lot after we see the items. You are free to say no.
Step 1
You send what you have
Photos and a few details are enough: what it is, roughly how many, and what condition. A form, a text, or a call all work.
Step 2
We tell you if it is a fit
We reply with whether we buy it and whether we can come to you or you should mail it in. If it is not a fit, we say so.
Step 3
We look at the items, then make one offer
We do not quote a price from photos. Once we have seen the items, you get one offer for the lot, and we can explain what drove it.
Step 4
You decide
Say yes and we complete the sale. Say no and you owe nothing.
What moves an offer
- Which exact items, titles, or models are in the lot
- Condition and completeness, such as boxes, manuals, and all the parts
- Whether it works, if it is a device or a console
- What similar items are selling for right now
Who you are dealing with
DeKlutterNow is a small business based in Oceanside, California. You can ask questions before you send anything: text (858) 247-2017 or email hello@deklutternow.com.
Get an offer
Send your camera for a review
The more you tell us, the faster we can say whether it is a fit and what happens next. We do not quote a price from a form. Final offers come after we look at the items. You can also text photos to (858) 247-2017.
What to send
- • One photo of everything together, then close ups of the best pieces
- • Titles, brands, model numbers, or marks like 14K or 925 when you can read them
- • Boxes, manuals, papers, or graded labels if you have them
- • Anything that is broken, missing, or not working, so we can price it honestly
- • Your city and zip so we know if we can come to you
What we do not buy
- • Cameras with heavy fungus, water damage or smoke odor
- • Disposable and single use cameras
- • Digital cameras with no battery or charger and broken screens
- • Cameras with corroded battery compartments you cannot show us
Not sure? Send it anyway and we will tell you. See the full list.
Questions sellers ask
- Do you buy film cameras that have not been tested?
- Often yes, but tell us they are untested. Untested cameras are looked at differently from tested ones, and we would rather know than guess.
- Can I sell a camera that needs a service?
- Sometimes. Describe what you noticed, such as a slow shutter at 1 second, sticky advance, or old light seals. Many service needs are fine to discuss, and some are not.
- Do you buy Hasselblad, Leica, Rolleiflex and Mamiya?
- Yes, we review them. Send the exact model, serial number, lens and finder details, and clear photos of the glass.
- What if my lens has fungus or haze?
- Tell us and show it with a light through the glass. Light dust is normal. Fungus and haze change what is possible, and heavy cases may not be a fit.
- Should I sell the body and lenses together?
- Usually send everything together. We may value pieces differently, but a full kit is easy to review in one visit.
- Does the original box or case matter?
- It helps, especially for premium and collector cameras. Keep boxes, cases, manuals, and straps with the matching camera.
- Do you buy digital cameras and lenses too?
- Yes, with battery, charger and caps where possible. We look at the body, lenses, and accessories together.
- How can I check what my camera is worth?
- Search the exact model in recent sold listings, not asking prices, and compare the same condition and what was included. A tested camera and an untested one are different items.
- Can I mail in a camera?
- Yes. Outside Southern California we use prepaid mail-in, and we explain how to pack cameras and lenses safely.
Keep reading
- Sell cameras for cash in Southern California
- Guide: how to sell a film camera
- Sell cameras in San Diego
- Sell cameras in Orange County
- Prepaid mail-in
- What we buy
Questions before you send anything? Text DeKlutterNow at (858) 247-2017.