Sell retro video games and game collections

How do I tell what my collection is worth before I sell?

You can get a fair sense of it yourself, and it makes any conversation with a buyer better. We do not quote prices from this page, and we do not quote from photos alone.

• Make a list by platform and title. A clear photo of each shelf with readable spines also works.
• Mark each title as loose, complete, or sealed. This single detail can change an offer more than anything else.
• Search the exact title and platform in a recent sold listings search or a price tracking site, and look at completed sales, not asking prices.
• Compare the same condition. A sold complete copy tells you nothing about your loose copy.
• Look for region and edition on the label or box. Special editions, regional releases and later reprints are not the same item.
• Expect common sports titles and shovelware to matter little one at a time, and see whether a buyer will take them along with the better pieces rather than cherry pick.

How do I spot a reproduction or fake game?

Reproduction cartridges and bootleg discs exist for many systems, and they are not valued like originals. Checking before you sell protects you from a surprise at inspection.

• Compare the label with a known original of the same title and region. Look for blurry print, wrong colors, spelling errors, and a glossy label where the original was matte.
• Check the shell. A mismatched shell, loose fit, or ordinary screws where the system used special ones are warning signs.
• On high value titles, an opened cartridge can show black blob chips, stacked boards, or internal stickers that an original would not have.
• For Game Boy and Game Boy Advance games, the plastic color, the molded text, and the label code are common checks. Many Pokemon cartridges are copied, so be careful with them.
• Battery backed saves on genuine games use a soldered battery. Glued on or dummy batteries are a red flag.
• If you are not sure, say so and send photos of the front, back, and label. We would rather you ask than guess.

We do not buy reproductions, bootlegs, or pirated copies. If something turns out not to be original, we say so and you owe nothing.

What about sealed and graded games?

These are treated one at a time, never as bulk, and the details are easy to get wrong.

• Photograph the full front and back, all four corners, and the seams on every side.
• Look for tears, dents, punctures, price sticker residue, and wrap that looks loose or re wrapped.
• Do not open, press, or try to clean a sealed game. Do not remove a game from its grading case.
• For graded games, send the grading company, the grade, the serial number, and a photo of the label.
• Original wrap and a resealed copy are different things. If you bought it sealed from someone else and cannot confirm its history, say so.

Before you send photos

• Keep the whole collection together. Photograph it in one shot first, then close ups.
• Keep each game with its box, manual and inserts, and each console with its controller and cables.
• Do not clean cartridge contacts or disc surfaces with harsh methods. A light dry wipe of the outside is fine.
• Do not peel stickers or rub off residue. It can damage labels.
• Do not open sealed games or graded cases.
• Do not ship a handheld or controller with a swollen battery.
• Set aside anything your family wants to keep before you decide what to sell.

Questions sellers ask

Is it worth selling old video games?

Often, yes, but it depends on the titles and their condition. A few titles in a collection can matter much more than the rest. Send a shelf photo and a title list and we will tell you honestly which part is worth a conversation.

Do you buy loose cartridges without boxes?

Yes. Loose games are welcome. Boxes and manuals can add interest, so keep them with the matching game if you have them.

Do you buy a collection that has a lot of common games?

Yes. We make one offer for the lot after we see the items. Common titles matter less one at a time, but we look at the collection as a whole instead of picking only a few titles.

Do you buy consoles that do not work?

Sometimes. A console that does not power on or read games can still be useful as parts or repair stock. Tell us what it does and does not do and send photos, and we will say whether it is a fit.

Do you buy modded consoles?

Modded systems are looked at case by case. Many buyers decline systems with mod chips, custom firmware or jailbreaks, so tell us exactly what was changed before you send anything.

How can I tell if my cartridge is a reproduction?

Compare the label, shell and screws with a known original of the same title and region, and look for blurry print, wrong colors, spelling errors and mismatched parts. On high value titles an opened board can show black blob chips. If you are unsure, send photos and say so.

Does the box really matter?

For cardboard box systems like NES, SNES, N64 and Game Boy, the condition of the box matters a lot. A crushed, torn or water damaged box is treated differently from a clean one. Photograph the corners and all sides.

Should I send graded games and sealed games differently?

Yes. They are looked at one at a time. Send the full front and back, the corners, the seams, and for graded games the label and serial number. Do not open or clean them.

Do you buy imports and PAL region games?

Sometimes. Region matters because it changes who can use the game. Tell us the region printed on the box or label and we will say whether it is a fit.

Can I sell if I live outside Southern California?

Yes. For shippable collections we offer prepaid mail-in. See the mail-in page for how it works.