Sell Eames, Danish teak and mid-century modern furniture
Mid-century modern furniture is judged on maker, originality, and condition. A label, a maker's stamp, or the right hardware can tell a buyer exactly what you have. A refinish or a reproduction can change the answer. This page shows where to look.
Short answer: Send photos of each piece from the front, the side, and underneath, plus close ups of any label, stamp, or burned in mark, to (858) 247-2017 or use the form below. Add approximate size and say what you know about repairs or refinishing. We tell you whether it looks like a fit and arrange a look in person in Southern California. Large furniture is not a mail-in item.
Where do I find a maker's mark?
Makers put labels in predictable places. Check these spots first, and photograph anything you find.
Underneath and inside
Underside of tables and chairs, inside drawers, on the backs of cabinets, and behind drawers. Look for paper labels, metal tags, ink stamps, and burned in marks.
Herman Miller and Eames
Look for a Herman Miller label or medallion, shock mounts on molded chairs, and the shell and base details. Original parts matter.
Danish teak
Look for a burned in mark or a metal tag from the maker, a Danish furniture control label, and a note of the model number.
Lighting and decor
Look at the base, the socket, and the shade fitting for marks. Ceramics and glass are often marked on the bottom.
Many real pieces have lost their labels. A missing label is not the end, but it is part of what we ask about.
How do I tell original from reproduction?
- Look at construction. Original pieces often use finger joints, mortise and tenon joints, and solid wood in places a reproduction would use a cheaper method
- Check the hardware. Screws, brackets, and shock mounts should be period appropriate and matching
- Look at the wear. Natural wear in logical places, like edges and arm rests, suggests age. Even artificial distressing is a red flag
- Check the weight and the material. Heavy teak and walnut feel different from veneered particleboard
- Compare the proportions to photographs from a museum or maker catalog
- When in doubt, ask for a second opinion with clear photos
Original finish, refinished and reupholstered
Buyers of mid-century furniture often prefer original finish and honest wear, so what was done to a piece matters.
- Original oil or lacquer with gentle wear is usually preferred
- Sanding, stripping, and heavy polyurethane can change a piece and affect what a buyer will accept
- Reupholstering can be fine, but original fabric and foam in good shape is valued
- Painted pieces, glued repairs, and replaced legs should be disclosed
What should I photograph and measure?
- The whole piece from the front, from a side, and from above if it is a table
- The underside and the inside of drawers, where labels hide
- Any damage such as water rings, chips, veneer lifting, or loose joints
- Close ups of hardware, legs, and joints
- Approximate height, width, and depth
- The room or stairs the piece needs to pass through
How does pickup work for large furniture?
- In our Southern California service area we come to you and look at the pieces in person
- We talk through pickup if we buy, and we are careful about floors and doorways
- Large furniture does not work for mail-in, so we say so honestly if you live outside our area
- Smaller pieces such as lamps and ceramics can sometimes be mailed
What we look at
- Eames, Herman Miller, and other known maker pieces
- Danish and Scandinavian teak and rosewood furniture
- Credenzas, sideboards, lounge chairs, dining sets, and desks
- Lighting, ceramics, and design pieces from the era
What is usually not a fit
- Modern reproductions and replicas
- Pieces with pet damage, mold, or heavy odor
- Pieces with active insect damage
- Particleboard with swollen water damage
Careful notes on selling furniture
- Do not sand, strip, or refinish a piece before showing it.
- Be wary of pieces that look too perfect and have no maker information.
- Never ship a large piece to a buyer you have not met without a written agreement.
What photos should I send?
Good photos get a faster and more honest answer. Natural light and a plain background are enough.
- The whole piece from the front and the side
- The underside and inside of drawers, where labels sit
- Close ups of any label, stamp, or burned in mark
- Any damage, repair, or refinish
- Hardware and joints
How an offer works
We make one offer for the whole lot after we see the items. You are free to say no.
Step 1
You send what you have
Photos and a few details are enough: what it is, roughly how many, and what condition. A form, a text, or a call all work.
Step 2
We tell you if it is a fit
We reply with whether we buy it and whether we can come to you or you should mail it in. If it is not a fit, we say so.
Step 3
We look at the items, then make one offer
We do not quote a price from photos. Once we have seen the items, you get one offer for the lot, and we can explain what drove it.
Step 4
You decide
Say yes and we complete the sale. Say no and you owe nothing.
What moves an offer
- Which exact items, titles, or models are in the lot
- Condition and completeness, such as boxes, manuals, and all the parts
- Whether it works, if it is a device or a console
- What similar items are selling for right now
Who you are dealing with
DeKlutterNow is a small business based in Oceanside, California. You can ask questions before you send anything: text (858) 247-2017 or email hello@deklutternow.com.
Get an offer
Send your furniture for a review
The more you tell us, the faster we can say whether it is a fit and what happens next. We do not quote a price from a form. Final offers come after we look at the items. You can also text photos to (858) 247-2017.
What to send
- • One photo of everything together, then close ups of the best pieces
- • Titles, brands, model numbers, or marks like 14K or 925 when you can read them
- • Boxes, manuals, papers, or graded labels if you have them
- • Anything that is broken, missing, or not working, so we can price it honestly
- • Your city and zip so we know if we can come to you
What we do not buy
- • Modern reproductions and replicas
- • Pieces with pet damage, mold or heavy odor
- • Pieces with active insect damage
- • Particleboard with swollen water damage
Not sure? Send it anyway and we will tell you. See the full list.
Questions sellers ask
- How do I know if my furniture is mid-century modern?
- Look for clean lines, tapered legs, teak or walnut wood, and a maker label underneath. If unsure, text photos and we tell you.
- How can I tell a real Eames chair?
- Look for Herman Miller labels, correct shock mounts, and original shell and base details. Photograph underneath and send close ups.
- Do you buy Danish teak furniture?
- Yes. Look for burned in marks, metal tags, and model numbers, and photograph joints and finish.
- Does refinishing hurt the value?
- Often yes. Many buyers prefer original finish with honest wear. Tell us what was done.
- What if my piece has no label?
- Many do. Send photos of construction, joints, and hardware and we will tell you what we see.
- Do you pick up large pieces?
- In our Southern California service area, yes. We look at the pieces in person and talk through pickup if we buy.
- Do you buy lamps and ceramics?
- Yes. Lighting, ceramics, and design pieces from the era are a fit. Photograph the base and any marks.
- Can I mail in furniture?
- Large furniture does not work for mail-in. Smaller pieces like lamps and ceramics can sometimes be mailed.
Keep reading
- Sell mid-century modern for cash in Southern California
- Sell mid-century in Los Angeles
- Sell mid-century in Long Beach
- Sell mid-century in San Diego
- What we buy
Questions before you send anything? Text DeKlutterNow at (858) 247-2017.